Why the quality of your clothes has changed in the last 20 years

We've all heard the saying, "You get what you pay for," and it often holds true across various aspects of life. Higher prices typically mean better service, experience, performance, or simply a superior product. But when it comes to clothing, does this adage hold up? Are more expensive clothes truly better in quality? Let's explore this question by examining different tiers of fashion brands and how the overall quality of clothing has changed over the years.

Defining Quality in Clothing

Quality in clothing can refer to how the garment looks, feels, and its durability. For simplicity, we'll focus on four key factors: material, construction, silhouette, and durability.

Shopping for Quality: Different Tiers of Fashion Brands

  1. Ultra Fast Fashion Brands: Primark, Boohoo, and ASOS fall into this category, offering the cheapest products possible. These clothes often exhibit loose threads, poor construction, and 100% synthetic fabrics. They cater to consumers looking for the lowest prices without expecting high quality.

  2. Mass Market High Street Brands: H&M, Zara, and Uniqlo provide slightly better quality than ultra-fast fashion brands but still prioritize cost-cutting in materials and construction.

  3. Premium High Street Brands: COS, Aritzia, and Massimo Dutti offer a more premium product at reasonable prices. Their products are generally more thoughtfully designed and made with better materials.

  4. Accessible Luxury Brands: Ralph Lauren, Ami Paris, and Studio Nicholson cater to consumers willing to invest more for a higher-quality product without reaching luxury price tags. These brands often ensure better construction, higher quality fabrics, and more ethical supply chains.

  5. Luxury Brands: Prada, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton represent some of the most expensive clothing, but quality can vary. Often, the high prices reflect the brand name more than the garment's actual quality.

Recognizing Poor vs. Good Quality in Clothes

When evaluating clothing quality, initial inspection is crucial. Here are some tips:

  • Material: Feel the fabric. It should align with the garment's purpose (e.g., lightweight and breathable for summer, heavy and insulating for winter). Poor quality fabrics feel rough, too tight, or unsuitable for the garment's intended use.

  • Stitching: Look for tight and even stitching, especially at seams and hems. Loose or uneven stitching indicates poor construction.

  • Patterns and Details: Ensure patterns align at seams. Check buttons and zippers for functionality and quality. High-quality garments often have additional details like linings that add structure and durability.

  • Care Label: Examine the material composition. Avoid polyester and other synthetic blends when possible. High-quality garments are often made from 100% natural fibers like cotton or wool.

  • Fit and Silhouette: Try on the garment to assess fit and drape. Poorly designed fast fashion items often have subpar silhouettes, while premium brands invest time in perfecting design and fit.

The Rise and Fall of Quality in Fashion

The decline in clothing quality is not limited to a single brand or category. Shopping at Abercrombie & Fitch after many years revealed that prices are more affordable, but the quality has noticeably declined. Loose threads and an abundance of synthetic fabrics have replaced the firm, high-quality materials previously associated with the brand. This decline is widespread, affecting the entire fashion industry.

In the 1980s, the average American bought around 12 pieces of clothing annually, spending about 7% of their income on apparel. Today, we buy roughly 68 pieces per year, yet clothing expenditure has dropped to just 3% of our income. This shift is partly explained by the rise of fast fashion, which transformed the production process to prioritize speed and quantity over quality.

Fast fashion pioneers like Zara revolutionized the industry by streamlining production. They introduced the concept of "greige goods," unfinished fabrics quickly turned into garments. By producing in small batches and responding swiftly to market trends, Zara minimized the risks associated with traditional fashion cycles. This model proved highly successful and was soon adopted by other fast fashion giants like H&M and Forever 21.

The 2008 financial crisis further accelerated the shift towards cheaper, lower-quality clothing. Middle-class consumers, with reduced spending power, gravitated towards more affordable options. Traditional retailers, struggling to compete, began cutting costs by reducing the quality of materials and craftsmanship. Synthetic fibers like polyester replaced natural ones, and cost-saving measures such as fewer sizes and skimping on details became common.

The rise of online shopping and social media also played a significant role. Influencers and fast fashion brands thrive on the demand for new, trendy outfits, pushing consumers to constantly update their wardrobes. This demand fuels the production of low-cost, disposable clothing, epitomized by ultra-fast fashion retailer Shein. Shein can produce and release new items in just three days, selling hyper-trendy, low-quality clothing at unbeatable prices.

Environmental and Ethical Costs

The environmental and ethical costs of fast fashion are staggering. The industry relies on exploitative labor practices, with workers in unsafe conditions and meager wages. The environmental impact is equally dire, with massive amounts of textile waste polluting our planet. Despite these issues, the fast fashion industry continues to grow, driven by corporate greed and consumer demand for cheap clothing.

There are efforts to combat these negative trends. Lawmakers are attempting to close tax loopholes and introduce regulations to ensure fair labor practices and environmental standards. However, the battle is far from over, and the industry is resistant to change.

Conclusion: You Get What You Pay For?

So, does quality increase with price? Generally, yes, especially from mass-market high street to accessible luxury brands. However, in the luxury and ultra-luxury categories, the correlation between price and quality becomes less clear. In many cases, the high prices reflect the brand name more than the garment's actual quality.

Ultimately, being a discerning shopper, recognizing signs of good quality, and making intentional purchases can help you enjoy clothing that looks and feels great while lasting longer. Investing in fewer, higher-quality pieces can lead to a more intentional wardrobe, prolonging your clothing's lifespan and offering greater satisfaction. What do you think? Is it worth spending more on higher quality, or do you prefer sticking to budget-friendly options?

Chas DownsComment